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Be Prepared: Getting a Good Deal on a New Car
by Jerry Edgerton
| See
a credit union loan officer today for all of your auto financing
needs. |
For many consumers,
buying a new car is no fun at all -- especially since it's a game
you have to play on the opponent's home court. A dealership and
its sales people negotiate car prices hundreds of times a month,
while you do it only once every few years.
But you can
even the odds before you ever get to the dealership. Keep the transaction
simple; explore financing and selling your old car ahead of time.
Know what the dealer paid for the car you want and what rebates
or other incentives are being offered; you can find all that on
the Internet. Once you are ready to shop, know what maneuvers to
expect from the sales people and how you will counter them.
Keep
it simple
If you keep financing and trade-in out of the dealership discussion,
you can focus solely on negotiating the price of your new car. Get
financing approved in advance from your credit union or bank. Research
what your old car is worth and -- if it's four years old or less
and in good condition -- get a bid on it from the used-car department
of a dealer where you don't plan to shop and think about selling
it there.
In any case,
you can discover the approximate value of your car on Web sites
like Kelley Blue Book, which lets
you adjust for your location and the condition of your car. The
Web site will give you both trade-in value and what you are likely
to get if you sell it yourself with an ad in the newspaper or on
the Internet. By selling it yourself, you probably can get at least
20% more than if you trade it in.
Know
crucial price information
Car shoppers who get the best deals start by knowing the dealer's
cost for the car they want and negotiating from there. Web sites
like Edmunds.com, and CarPoint.msn.com
will give you the dealer's cost for the car you want, known as dealer's
invoice price. In calculating this number, remember to add in any
optional equipment you're likely to want. Find out, also on these
Web sites, what rebates and other incentives are offered on the
car. If there is, say, a $1,500 consumer rebate on the model you
want, you get that amount regardless of what price you negotiate.
| Establish
right away that you’re a potentially serious buyer,
not just shopping. |
Dealer incentives
are paid to dealers by manufacturers to move a certain model; frequently
you can negotiate for a portion of that amount. (Keep a folder with
printouts of all this information in case a salesman should challenge
your assertions about invoice price or incentives -- a frequent
tactic.) Then set your target price. Not counting rebates, aim to
pay no more than 2% over the invoice price for high-volume models
like Toyota Camry, Ford Explorer, or Honda Civic. On a vehicle with
a $20,000 invoice price, for example, $400 would be 2% more.
You can check
if your target is reasonable by looking at the "True Market
Value" price on Edmunds.com. This is the current average selling
price for a given model, though that price doesn't include many
popular options. In addition to your actual target, figure out where
you'll start bidding in order to give a little ground to the dealership
in negotiations and still hit your target.
When
you go to the dealership
Stay in control of the negotiations. Dealers train their sales people
to steer conversations with customers a certain way. Work instead
to keep the focus where you want it. Establish right away that you
are a potentially serious buyer, not just shopping.
Say something
like: "I plan to buy a Chevrolet Malibu in the next two weeks
and will buy where I get the best price. Let's talk about it."
Politely avoid small talk about what you do and where you live--this
is part of the financial "qualifying" profile the sales
person is trained to check out.
Keep the conversation
about the invoice price -- not the manufacturer's suggested retail
price (MSRP) or list price. The sales person may say something like:
"Because we need to move this model, we can knock $1,000 off
MSRP." Since you have done your homework, you can counter with
something like: "That's still $800 over invoice price--that's
more than I'm willing to pay." If your target price is really
$300 over the invoice number, then start out, say, bidding $100
above the invoice price.
By
selling your car yourself, you probably can get at least
20% more than if you trade it in. |
|
At this point,
the sales person may say he or she needs to get a manager's approval
to offer a better deal. Don't play the waiting game -- old-school
dealerships may try to keep you waiting for a half hour or more.
This is mostly a tactic to wear you down. Politely make plain that
you won't be waiting more than a few minutes. Unless you get a bid
for your target price right away, take the best offer from that
dealership and get another bid or two at other locations. Then take
the offer closest to your target.
Once
the price is set
Don't even mention that you have a potential trade-in until the
price is set, especially if your car is in good condition and the
same make as the new one you are buying. If that's the case it's
potentially a good used car for the dealer to sell -- now check
to see what the dealer would offer. You already know what the average
trade-in value is and what it's worth in a sale elsewhere. Check,
too, on dealer financing deals that may have lower rates than your
already-approved loan. But most such deals come as an either-or
choice with cash rebates.
So it often can make more sense to take the rebate and keep the
financing you have.
If
you hate all this...
Consider no-haggle dealerships. For example, all Saturn dealers
and some dealers for other brands have fixed prices. Because of
the lack of negotiations and a focus on courteous handling of customers,
these dealerships consistently rank high in customer satisfaction
surveys. Prices will be the same at all Saturn dealerships. But
if you're considering a so-called no-haggle dealership for other
brands, do your research just as for any conventional dealership
so you can tell if the fixed price is a reasonable deal -- not more
than 3% over the invoice price for most brands (a bit more than
a reasonably good negotiator would pay at a conventional dealership).
Do your research in advance, and if the price looks good you avoid
the negotiating hassles.
Jerry Edgerton
is an automotive writer whose work has appeared in Money and other
national magazines. He also is the author of the book "Car
Shopping Made Easy".
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